Reviewed by Chris Corey | Photos by Chris and Jennifer Corey
The Drover is a timeless Omaha culinary landmark, first opening in 1968 as a Cork and Cleaver franchise by Bob Anderson and his business partner at the time. Years later, they dropped the franchise name, rebranded as The Drover, and Anderson purchased his partner’s share. The steakhouse has been in family hands ever since. Today, Anderson’s daughters, Amy Leise and Wendy Anderson co-own the business, intent on keeping the ranch-style decor and atmosphere.
“It’s bittersweet,” Leise recalled. “My dad’s legacy really lives on here. He was a horseman, loved Aksarben, the stockyards and Omaha history. He and his brothers ran Anderson Amoco stations back in the day – now Anderson Convenience and Anderson Market. So it’s not just the restaurant; our ruts run deep in the city.”
Inside is a moody, romantically lit restaurant with solid dark wood beams, brick walls and authentically rustic charm. The decor feels like it’s from the 1960s and preserves its vintage character – an old-school steakhouse with a menu built around whiskey-marinated steaks. That menu has remained largely consistent over several decades.
“It’s our kind of fine dining,” Leise said. “You can come in after a College World Series game in flip-flops, or from a corporate dinner in a suit. Either way, we’re going to treat you the same — and serve you the same whiskey-marinated steak.”
In late 2018, just four years after Leise and Anderson took ownership, a devastating kitchen fire forced The Drover to close its doors. The extensive damage required significant rebuilding and code upgrades. Despite this, Leise and Anderson remained determined to preserve The Drover’s rustic, classic ambiance.
The restaurant reopened in 2019, just a few short months before the pandemic brought further disruption. Despite back-to-back crises, Leise ensured that every employee continued to receive full pay.
“Our employees never lost a paycheck,” Leise said. “Not even tips. Not one of them – busboys, dishwashers, everybody. We made it a priority to take care of our team, no matter what. We didn’t let go of one single person. Our team stuck with us, and we stuck with them.”
The Drover prides itself on being a scratch-made kitchen. The whiskey marinade is house-made as are many of the sauces and dressings. Presently, the desserts come from CaroLynn’s Cheesecake. Carolyn, who, along with her daughter, has provided desserts like cinnamon toffee and key lime cheesecake for years.
Leise said they are currently expanding the kitchen to include some of their own scratch-made desserts in the mix, such as cast-iron baked brownies with a western flair. Desserts like this will be aimed at reinforcing The Drover’s cowboy roots while keeping its fine-dining feel.
Jennifer and I visited The Drover twice – for dinner and lunch. While these were our first-ever visits to The Drover, they most certainly won’t be our last.
For our dinner visit, we started with cocktails – Jennifer had an old fashioned and I had a margarita. As an appetizer, we ordered the grilled bacon-wrapped shrimp. For entrees, Jennifer had the broiled salmon filet with a trip to the salad bar and asparagus as a side. I had the 10-ounce top sirloin, chicken-tortilla soup and a loaded baked potato as a side. We ended with a cinnamon toffee double-layer cheesecake for dessert.
The Drover doesn’t have a cocktail menu. The server said they’re “old school” in that way. I kind of like that – when you walk into a place like this, it feels like you should already know your cocktail.
The old fashioned is an excellent mix of bitter and sweet and the whiskey really comes through on the finish. It’s boozy and warm with a hint of citrus and cherry mixed with the bitters.
The margarita had a good punch of lime and carried just the right amount of sweetness. The tequila really comes through, but not so much it overpowers the drink.
The bread comes to the table fresh and warm. You can taste the molasses and whole grain. It’s wholesome with a caramelized undertone — a perfect example of steakhouse bread done right.
The grilled bacon wrapped shrimp and sauteed mushrooms are an excellent appetizer. The mushrooms carried the same whiskey marinade the steaks are made with. The shrimp were ever so slightly overcooked but the crispy bacon wrap more than made up for it. The star of this dish was the creamy horseradish lemon sauce. The kick from the horseradish complements the citrus. It’s a sauce that the kitchen staff came up with and it’s a winner.
The chicken tortilla soup was rich, hearty and creamy. There’s a dominant mix of cumin and roasted peppers in the broth, and the chicken was moist and tender. The tortilla strips on top added a fantastic crunchy element. It’s a wonderful, comforting soup.
Every ingredient at the salad bar is crisp and refreshing – almost as if they were just picked. The chilled salad plates helped keep the salad cool. Jennifer opted for French dressing. It was fresh, creamy and tangy with a slight hint of tomato. It’s not a dressing I typically choose, but at The Drover, it’s an excellent option.
The broiled salmon filet was cooked to tender, flaky perfection. It was well seasoned but not too much to overwhelm the fish. It came with a house-made tartar sauce that was rich, tangy and paired beautifully with the salmon. The asparagus was roasted to the point of being tender while keeping some of its crispness.
I ordered the 10-ounce, top sirloin medium rare with the whiskey marinade. There’s a reason so many people rave about this marinade. It bears a whiskey sweetness and has a salty umami flavor. The steak was cooked as ordered and arrived juicy and tender. As a side, I opted for the loaded baked potato. The spud was fork tender, and the toppings of sour cream, chives, bacon and cheese gave it that home-cooked touch. This was an exquisite steak meal, worth every bite.
During dinner, we noticed a lot of diners ordering the cinnamon toffee double layer cheesecake. The couple dining at the table next to us recommended it as well. So that’s what we did, and boy, were they right! Imagine a layer of exceptional bread pudding topped with delectable cheesecake. If you like these combinations, you’ll love this cheesecake. I’ve been told even the cheesecake-hesitant love this indulgence. The table next to us equated it to Cinnamon Toast Crunch in a cheesecake. They’re spot on, in all the best ways.
Our next visit was during lunch. We started with a bloody Mary and a whiskey sour for cocktails. As a starter, we chose the steakhouse chili. For entrees, Jennifer ordered the seasoned chicken with baked potato soup and a side of broccoli. I ordered the grilled prime rib, a trip to the salad bar and French fries. For dessert, we tried the key lime pie.
The whiskey sour is a sweet, tart and slightly bitter cocktail. It’s a great way to start a journey through a steakhouse menu. While it’s a full-flavored cocktail, don’t let the ice melt too fast as it will dilute the drink, causing it to lose its edge.
The bloody Mary leads with a burst of tomato and a nice, mild seasoning. It’s well blended and boozy with just enough vodka heat on the finish. As bloody Marys go, it’s on the mild side but delicious nonetheless.
The steakhouse chili is bold and full-bodied. It’s heavily seasoned – my preference. It’s beefy and robust. The meat is tender and prominent. I recommend ordering it with the cheese and onion on top as it adds extra depth. It’s comfort food in a bowl.
The baked potato soup is made with chunks of tender potato in a heavy, creamy, savory base. The creamy broth is a delight on its own – a base so flavorful that it could elevate any soup. The bacon, green onions and cheese are bonus, welcome additions and round out the flavor profile.
The seasoned chicken sits on a bed of wild rice and is topped with a grilled pineapple. The chicken breast is one of the most tender and juicy I’ve ever had. The wild rice is also seasoned nicely and the grilled pineapple adds an excellent pop of bright tartness. Jennifer requested the creamy horseradish sauce that came with the bacon wrapped shrimp. It’s an incredible accompaniment to this dish as well.
The whiskey grilled prime rib is melt-in-the-mouth tender, and the whiskey marinade adds a boozy umami element. I ordered it with fries, which were prepared just right. It came with a creamy house-made horseradish sauce that went well with the prime rib.
The key lime pie is a rich custard bursting with lime. It’s not too tart and not overly sugary – a perfect blend of both. It’s an indulgent pie that sits on top of a thick bed of graham cracker crust. The lime is refreshing and it caps a heavy steak meal exquisitely.
Upgrades to the kitchen are currently underway a little at a time as it remains open. In addition to adding house-made desserts to the menu, management aims to improve workflow and expand the grill space. Leise plans to broaden appetizer offerings with the goal of enhancing the guest experience during the slightly longer wait time for the whiskey marinated steaks.
“We’re not trying to reinvent anything,” Leise said. “We just want to keep doing what we do best – and make it even better without losing who we are.”
The Drover’s building might look out of place in an area modernizing with new construction and development, but it stands as an invaluable timepiece – a reminder that the cowboy way is still very much alive. I wouldn’t be surprised, if decades later, you’ll still be able to mosey on in for a juicy steak and a great cocktail whether you’re in shorts and flip-flops or a business suit. You’ll find a place at their table.
https://growomaha.com/the-drover-timeless-omaha-steakhouse-still-sizzling
